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Sunday, up early and on the train and as this weekend is a national holiday weekend with Monday being a holiday. The train was crowded with people out for the day to the Rio Parana and travelling via a place called Tigre.

Tigre, is a holiday town for locals and a very important river port in the Parana delta. It was very busy with the river boats coming and going just like a bus station with people, dogs and all their belongings including such items as lawn mowers and anything else being loaded.

One Guy assisting the loading with leather jacket and fag hanging out of his mouth was the exact likeness of the American actor Lee Marvin the whole thing was like being in a 50’s or 60’s movie.

Once loaded Raimund and Antonio got us the perfect seat behind the Captain. I looked at the gear leaver that was a long chrome lever with a large chrome dice welded to the end for a knob. So it was with the roll of a dice that we travel.

Rather than a leisurely move all four boats that had completed loading charged forward and we were full of excitement of this new adventure however the rest of the passengers were quiet relaxed. On rounding the corner we passed a graveyard of ships waiting to be turned into scrap iron, some on a great list and almost sinking.

You can see how high the riverbanks are in this shot of a river boat passing us in the opposite direction.

These guys drive their boats like they drive their cars with the same skill to slot the boat into the exact position at full speed.

We continued into the waterways of the Parana that go for thousands of kilometres that include the countries of Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil. These waterways are made up of numerous of Islands that are inhabited by batches, homes and holiday resorts, shops, bars and floating shops. The buildings are all on piles as the water is only 500mm below the ground level.

The wash from the boats was cresting the banks as we proceeded. The boats themselves are made up of a variety of modern and old. The water bus we were on, was long and narrow and while old, was in immaculate condition with varnish to the water line and the trim in bright colours.

The captain a young slim Spanish type was very skilled and would manoeuvre the boat to each wharf to allow passengers to board or get off with ease.

After some time we entered the main river Rio Parana and there were many small craft and Super tankers and freight ships travelling in all directions. Our river bus that carried 81 passengers charged across the river and then turned off into a waterway on the opposite side and we continued past houses some in derelict condition and others mansions.

The main river Parana. With oil tanker.

We arrived at our destination a resort called Los Pecanes. This was an older building set in lovely grounds surrounded by bush. We went for a walk and returned to suffer this hard life, sunbathing on loungers and drink beer. How we suffered waiting for the BBQ.

So into the bush for a walk. What’s this a South American bees nest or wasps nest.

Argentina is the eaters and drinkers paradise and in particular a carnivores ecstasy. Mains, as much meat and salad of so many types that one could eat oneself to death. 30 types of dessert (Rhondda counted) and all the wine and beer you could drink for 25 NZ dollars each.

Now I was almost killed by poisoning, they fed me beef thymus glands!!!!! they were a salty mushie things. I initially thought that someone’s sock had got caught in the sausage making machine. This is not the sort of fodder a Kiwi fella eats, so I am very concerned that I may turn into something I am not. The steaks were sublime and we consumed many verities.

Well the water bus picked us up and we headed down through the water ways again and returned to Tigre. The people were sitting around watching the boats come and go, as is the custom here. Lee Marvin was there to greet us with the twinkle in his eye and his rough craggy face and still wearing the leather jacket with fag in his mouth, unloading boats and helping the old ladies off the boats.

A police office controlled the traffic as we crossed the road and at the station Rhondda queued for the loo and paid for the pleasure. Onto the train where we are entertained as usual by people selling anything that is portable. A 8 year old boy handed out pieces of paper with poems he on he had written. He then returned to pick them up or get paid. Some people paid and a young couple gave him some lollies they had bought off another vendor on the train. One guy was playing his little squeezebox piano accordion and another Peruvian a flute and guitar at the same time. The train moved on passing through flash suburbs and slums. Interesting enough some people here still have good manners and men give up their seats for ladies.

On the side of the tracks a man with his horse and cart going through the rubbish for items and talking of rubbish, here in Buenos Aires there is a recycling system that works very well. What happens, as people put out their rubbish at the end of the day and before the refuse company picks it up it is picked over by poor people who pick out anything that can be recycled. These people are called Cartineros and can be seen in any section of the city at dusk.

We are amazed by the diversity of this country, there are extreme rich and poor and it is very hard for us to get our head around the fact that so many people are working for very little just to survive. We have heard bad things about this town but we have only been met with kindness from every one including the poor.

Well the train pulled into our station and we walked past a religious icon in the wall of the station. All of the stations and roads have them to protect the travellers.

Tuesday we went to the Embassy to meet with Raimund and the travel agent to arrange out trip to Rio he is making things easy for us by being our Banker and changing our US dollars into Pesso’s. Brazil has another currency so we will get some later. Went to lunch with Raimund and had a Pizza and salad, Argentin’s should stick to steaks. We must be getting pickie about our food. It could be because Antonio is such a fantastic cook and we are treated to something great for every meal.

Wednesday, Antonio took us to the Evita Museum by Bus, this was an experience in it self. Firstly while standing at the bus stop you must pick out the one you want by reading the number and then hail it. However there are many buses and they are all travelling closely and at high speed so it take a certain amount of courage to step of the footpath and wave out. Once on the bus you have to sort out the payment by placing the money in a machine as the bus hurtles along. Rhondda had a seat and Antonio was standing along side of me. We both gripped the centre rail as the bus accelerated and the driver alternately braked or swerved to miss another vehicle. After coming to a shuddering halt at traffic lights we accelerated to high speed. As the road dipped to go under another cross road the buses velocity increased to such a speed that when we reached the bottom of the dip and started to go up the other side the suspension of the bus was flattened out. Antonio and I held on to the handrail for grim death faced us. We roared out of the dip at full speed to be confronted by a red traffic light at the top. The driver then braced himself and threw on the brakes, while Antonio and I with the rest of the passengers were flung forward and just managing to check our momentum by holding onto the hand rail. Antonio looked at me and made the understatement of the year. “Ze bus ez exciting iz’nt it”.

Everywhere the streets have trees.

On the way  to the museum we walked through a park. This was the meeting place for hundreds of cats and we do not exaggerate, talk about amazing they were all wild. We saw a pack of cats hunting a bird in a tree working like lions. We have never seen domestic cats work this way before and have never seen so many together. It was amazing.

When we got to the Evita Museum we found it did not open till the afternoon so we went by Bus to Boca. Boca is one of the first areas settled by new immigrants from Italy and is a poor area that has retained much of its old architecture and is a port area. This was the area that has produced some of Argentina’s leading sports people and artists.

We had been to the street Camanito previously on a bus trip but had decided to go back for a another look. This is amazing street with artisans mixed with tourist paraphernalia.

The local Fire brigade were there seeking donations.

Then it was back on the bus to the Evita museum but on the way we passed great buildings one was the reserve bank plastered in bullet and gun shot holes. (We don’t know why it is called the reserve bank because Argentina is broke but more about that later). Anyway this country has magnificent buildings and plazas. A Frenchman called Thay did much of the design of the city.

The Evita museum was very interesting with videos of actual footage of the times and her life history. It was set in one of the first houses set up by Evita as a temporary shelter for woman. Evita was also a champion of human rights and got women the vote here and started a social welfare system of sorts.

Evita died at 33 years but made a remarkable impact on her country.

Thursday, off to the travel agents to sort out our trip to Uruguay with our master interpreter and guide Antoino. Well we went at 9 am and the sign said not open till 11 am so we went shopping and returned at 11 am but the agency was still shut. This is Argentina and anything can happen so we did some more shopping and went back but as it was 12 am and still shut Antonio went home and Rhondda and I hung around a little longer to find the guy turned up about 1230pm.

That night we went to one of Raimunds colleagues homes for dinner. Wow what a place big and beautiful. They were motorcyclists and rode a F650 that he was not enamoured with.

Friday up early to catch the taxi to the Airport. We went to the domestic terminal that was pretty flash. We saw a jumbo jet sitting on the tarmac and were told it was the Argentine Presidents plane. He had cancelled his trip to Europe because his plane was going to be repossessed. We boarded a DC9 to fly to Iguazu. The plane was great but only one loo for 200 hundred people and I had to go just as the trolley and dollies were half way up the isle. So there was an interesting moment for me trying to get past the trolley and a bald guy who had painted his bald patch on top of his head to look like hair (Hmmmmm that got me thinking how I would look with a painted black top of my head). Nice!!!!!